Snowdonia - December 2011

It had been almost 10 months since I last put on my mountain boots and swung the backpack over my shoulder, it's fair to say that was too long. Since September I've been watching the weather report waiting to hear the panic and alarm that comes with the first snow of the season. I'm sure motorists were sat in their cars enjoying the mild autumn but for me it was massively frustrating. Where was the snow?

Since last March I had decided that if I really want to take mountaineering to greater adventures abroad I needed to be much much fitter. After 10 months I am getting there but still have a way to go. I've been looking forward to testing out the new body in the hills.

After tales of last season Sam and I managed to recruit some more members ready to gear up and join our mountaineering adventures, so as the snow began to finally fall Sam, Jonny, Jim, Rob and I booked up some accommodation and headed over to Snowdonia. 

Left to Right: Jonny, Jim, Paul, Rob (Sam taking photo!)

Still concerned there wouldn't be enough snow to make this a true winter expedition, I drove Jonny and Sam down to Snowdonia thinking at least it would be an opportunity to get away from it all. As we got closer we were excited to see snow covered mountain tops which gave us all a boost after the long car journey. 

On Saturday morning we set out a 8.30am planning to take a 13km custom route up Snowdon taking on part of the Snowdon Horseshoe, the Miners Path and the Pyg Track. The route had us walking towards what consistently looked like a vertical ascent up on to the Y Lliwedd ridge. When we got there it was pretty much that, but as usual by breaking it down into small manageable sections, we soon made our own way up onto the ridge. 

The ridge was much harder going than we had anticipated. There were no paths and the ground was rocky and the weather quickly deteriorated into a hail storm. A baptism of icey fire for our new recruits although none seemed phased at all. With ski goggles on and hoods up we pushed on through.

After some long and hard terrain we ate a load of what was now completely frozen food and made our final ascent to the summit. Jim remarked there had been times when what kept him going was the fact that turning round and going back the way we came was pretty unthinkable. He was right, the ridge was spectacular but the cloud cover made it a lonely and desolate place, not somewhere you want to be trying to descend.

We lasted about 20 minutes on the summit before the cold began to drive us down.

Paul and Sam

Jim & Jonny

Rob

The way down required the use of our crampons to get down the zig-zag of the pyg track but then a relatively easy stroll back to civilisation via the Miners Path. When we looked over at the face we had ascended and the ridge we had walked it was somewhat hard to comprehend.

So another winter adventure under our belts and preparing for the Cairngorms trip in January. I'm pleased to be steadily building the skills and experience which will ultimately enable more epic adventures in other places round the world. The lure of the worlds most serious mountains rarely leaves the back of my mind. Here's to working towards that dream!

Snowdonia 2011 Video

2010/11 Mountaineering Madness Video Round Up

Snowdon - December 2010

Scafell Pike - February 2011

Cairngorms - March 2011

Ben Nevis - March 2011

Gear Guide

So summer is here providing an ideal opportunity to reflect on kit for the coming winter. In mountaineering it's all about being well prepared and keeping light. Not always an easy balance to strike. I thought i would take the time to share my personal kit list for hiking up mountains in the UK. I would also use the same kit list for summer alpinism. 

1. Boots

For winter mountaineering you need a winter boot with the ability to take a crampon. This means you will want either a B1, B2 or B3 boot. The higher the rating the firmer the sole, an important feature for crampons. For the UK or summer alpinism I would use a B2 boot with a C2 Crampon. But if you are looking for the best you won't go wrong with the La Sportiva Nepal Extreme B3 (left) at about £275.

2. Crampons

When it comes to crampons few would argue against Grivel. Tried and tested all over the world the Grivel crampon can be relied upon even under the harshest conditions. Like winter boots, crampons come with three ratings, C1, C2, C3. In general a C1 crampon will fit a B1 boot, a C2 will fit a B2 and a C3 will fit a B3. It's essential to get a correct fit so always check compatibility before you purchase. I've personally opted for the Grivel G12 (left) which is a C2 crampon with 12 points. You will be able to pick these up for about £135.

3. Socks

A decent pair of summit socks is an essential not to be neglected. I personally wear two pairs of regular socks underneath a 4 season summit sock, partly for good fit and partly to keep my toes warm. Summit socks like the ones I've purchased (left) can be bought for around £20. You won't regret it on a bitterly cold day.

4. Gaiters

In deep snow gaiters really come in handy. A decent pair of gaiters will prevent snow getting into your boots and ultimately soaking your feet. Wet feet soon get cold and could put an abrupt end to your day. For winter I would recommend that any gaiters are knee high. The good news is that these can be purchased from as little as £10.

5. Waterproof Over Trousers

As you might expect waterproof trousers are essential for any winter adventure. It doesn't have to be raining or snowing to bring these out of the rucksack. In mountaineering there is generally lots of work done on your hands and knees and a pair of waterproof trousers will ensure your knees remain dry and warm. As an absolute minimum you will require a half length zip to ensure you can put the trousers on over your boots. You don't want to be in the snowy mountains hopping on one foot! I personally will only wear waterproof trousers with a 3/4 length zip. If you want the best buy Rab Bergan Pants (left) for £120.

6. Waterproof Jacket

You might be surprised to know that when it comes to UK winter mountaineering you won't want a heavy insulated jacket. Believe it or not you get incredibly hot when on the move even in minus temperatures. Best to keep a number of layers in the rucksack and put them on when needed. For this reason I would recommend a light to middle weight waterproof jacket. If you want the best look for the Rab Latok Alpine Jacket, a favourite around the globe and available from approximately £200.

7. Gloves

When it comes to gloves you can never have enough. A mountaineering instructor once told me he can judge the success of the day by the number of pairs he gets through. The more the better. One thing is for sure, when it comes to gloves they are never 100% waterproof. Rain and snow is one thing but climbing in the snow with your hands will mean eventually they will start to get wet. When I go in the mountains i always take at least two pairs, one thermal inner and one waterproof pair. It's not unusual for people to take three or four pairs. If you want the best you can buy the Rab Ice Gauntlet gloves for £69. Alternatively you pick up a decent pair of gloves for around £20.

8. Hat and Neck Gaiter

This bit is easy, a decent hat and neck gaiter. No particular  brand here guys and gals just something that is warm and hard wearing. £20 should see you with a decent one of each.

9. Rucksack

When out in the winter hills you want a good hard wearing rucksack between 35 and 45 litres. This should mean you can fit in your waterproofs, two-three layers, safety equipment and of course your lunch and water! Rucksacks are not waterproof so you have two options here. One is to purchase a very cheap rucksack liner for about £3 or another option is to purchase a waterproof cover which goes on the outside for about £10. It's down to personal preference here. I prefer a rucksack liner which can't blow away in the wind. As far as the rucksack I went for the Berghaus Arete 45 Litre. You can pick these up for approximately £40.

10. Ice Axe

Don't go up into the snow without it, it might just save your life. The ice axe is an essential tool in the winter mountains but it's only as good as your ability to use it. If you're buying one of these you should really be undergoing some training on how to use it. For general mountaineering a straight hiking axe of between 50 - 65 cm is recommended. I personally like to use mine as a walking aid and therefore have gone for a 70 cm ice axe which reaches the ground when my arm is hanging down by my side. If you look about you will be able to find one for around £50.

11. Head Torch

A good head torch might be an item that doesn't often come out of your backpack but if it's needed it could make the difference between getting down or spending a night stuck on the mountain. With that in mind it is worth investing in a good one. The Petzl Charlet Myo Head Torch comes in at about £45 and will give you about 72 hours of light. There are certainly cheaper ones out there but whatever you go for a halogen or super bright LED type is best.  Remember that batteries suffer in the cold and therefore always go up with spares. 

12. Sunglasses and Goggles

If the skies are clear in the snowy mountains the sunlight can be extremely strong. A good pair of sunglasses is highly recommended and in the Alps an absolute essential. If you're going really high and want the best go for Jublo Explorer Sunglasses, especially designed for high altitude and extreme sunlight. These don't come cheap and can be picked up for approximately £100. If you don't want to spend that much just make sure you have a good pair of sports sunglasses with high levels ultraviolet protection. When it comes to goggles the same applies.

13. Trekking Poles

Trekking poles could be considered optional and really it comes down to personal preference. I wouldn't leave without them, they help spread the load between you legs and arms. I also think that should you injure a leg they may help you get back down. If you're going to take some make sure they are lightweight but strong. Leki have just released the Makalu Khumbu Speedlock poles which fit the bill just perfectly. The flicklock system means you can keep your gloves on when you make adjustments. If you look around you will find these for around £65.

14. Map & Compass

Another example of an essential item that is only as good as your ability to use it. A good compass will keep you on track and should you stray, get you back home. A decent compass can be picked up for £10 - £30. A compass with the 1:50,0000 and 1:25,0000 scale helps when calculating distance in the cold.

15. Thermal Base layer

If your off into the winter mountains you will need a good set of thermal base layers. Ensure that you have top and bottoms and that the material will wick away moisture from your skin. A set will cost as little as £25 but ensure you are warm all day long.

16. Fleece Layers

I like to carry two fleece layers in my rucksack. One lightweight micro fleece and one mid layer fleece. If you have to stop for long you will want the option to add these layers under your jacket. The North Face offer a great range of fleeces and you will come away with one of each for about £60.

17. Hiking Trousers

A pair of lightweight hiking trousers are ideal to go under your waterproofs. I personally swear by Craghoppers which can be picked up for around £35. 

18. Survival Bag / Emergency Shelter.

Pick one of these up for less than £5. If you get stuck it will provide a waterproof and highly visible bag to wait for assistance. You may also wish to take an emergency shelter up with you depending on where you are off to.

19. Other Essentials

Other items to add to your essentials list include a first aid kit, pocket knife, lighter, water resistant matches, candles, glow sticks, torch, water bottle, medication, watch and mobile phone.

The Six Summit Challenge - Planning & Preparation

With a fantastic UK mountaineering season under our belts, it is now the season to enjoy the surf and sunshine over the summer. That said, Sam and I are already in discussions over the next mountaineering challenge - six summits in six days. In December we will head to Scotland to the Cairngorms and Lochaber to climb the six highest summits in the UK.

Ben Nevis 4409 ft

Ben Macdui 4295 ft

Braeriach 4252 ft

Cairn Toul 4236 ft

Sgor an Lochain Uaine 4127 ft

Cairn Gorm 4085 ft

In an ideal weather and avalanche scenario we would aim to climb all six summits in three consecutive days. We are allowing six days to accommodate for varying conditions.

Day 1 - 

Braeriach

Cairn Toul

Sgor an Lochain Uaine 

Day 2 - 

Cairn Gorm

Ben Macdui

Day 3 -

Ben Nevis

With five of the six summits based in the Cairngorms, the plan is to take opportunity to spend a night on the Cairngorm Plateau (the highest, coldest and snowiest plateau in the UK) in a snow hole. Extra pair of socks i think.

It feels good to be planning the next trip and I cant wait to get back into some snow and ice. Meanwhile the preparation will continue for the next epic winter season and for me that means five nights a week in the gym. Can wait to test out the new body in the mountains!

And Mont Blanc, don't think for one minute that we have forgotten you. Summer 2012?

Kinder Scout - A Christmas Cracker!

With my enthusiasm for mountaineering growing everyday, I took the opportunity to get out into the hills in the ‘lull’ between Christmas and New Years day. Surely the most boring week of the year? Unless of course you have a passion for traffic, crowds and sales shopping. Needless to say, I do not!

Living in the flat lands of Cambridgeshire makes it all the more difficult to just pop out into the hills. The nearest range to be found in the Peak District, a mere 2.5hrs drive! Thankfully I have family in Manchester that can provide an excellent base camp (and of course it’s always good to catch up).

This last minute expedition meant I was going solo, something of which I had never thought such a good idea in the winter. That said, my confidence was sky high after Snowdon and with Kinder Scout standing at just 2087ft (compared with Snowdon’s 3560ft) I was confident all would be well. You can always turn back you know!

As I was now accustomed to, I planned the route in detail and left a copy with my family in case I shouldn’t return before nightfall. I did the same for my fiancé who was back at home. If anything this made me walk faster to prevent my mother or fiancé calling out the mountain rescue team prematurely!

The walk from Edale starts gently with a couple of miles of path through some rolling hills. I was disappointed the record snowfall, that had shut the main road to Edale just the week before, had largely disappeared. The path was easy going but every now and again a patch of solid ice had to be crossed. Reluctant to put on my crampons for a mere 10ft I wobbled and slipped my way over a number of ice patches. This was fine until one particularly slippy patch through me in the air only to land severely twisting my right knee.

A shooting pain went through my leg as I quickly jumped up. I could walk and I hoped the pain would subside. The thought occurred to me; what if I couldn’t walk? Whilst I had gained little height it would be difficult for anyone to carry me out of here on foot given the large ice patches.

Covered in mud head to toe I took a minute to clean up using water from a nearby stream and my water bottle. I thought it would also be a good opportunity to see how effective my clothing was at keeping the water out. Very good, it seems. As I was cleaning up I saw another hiker heading for the same patch of ice. I warned him of the super slippy surface and he took note, only to suffer the same fate as I. Now there were two of us down by the river. I wished him all the best and carried on. N.B – 4 months on I still suffer with my knee albeit intermittently. A lesson to learn: Call it a day and get home for some rest.

Once the rolling hills were done, the ground steepens as you start to ascend to Jacobs Ladder. Keen to avoid any further injuries I avoided ice at all costs, although in places this was impossible. However, I was surprised to find that in general the route was still very easy going.

Jacobs ladder put a stop to that. A series of steep steps justified its name. With plenty of time I took it fairly easy and took regular breaks as I ascended. That said, when I saw another party catching me up my pace seemed to get quicker. Some mountaineering pride at stake? After the ladder I ascended for another hour to the Summit.

The Kinder Scout Summit plataea is notorious for reducing visibility to zero and subsequently it is quite common to find lost climbers wandering around the top looking for the summit cairn. I ended up being one of them. As soon as I hit the plateau the mist came down. I could just about see my hand in front of my face. I used my compass and map to navigate to the cairn but just couldn’t seem to find it. After about 20 minutes I was about to concede defeat when I heard two gentleman talking about what types of sandwiches they had for lunch. Was I hearing voices? Going crazy in the mountain mist? I followed their sound and to my surprise found the cairn a mere 10ft away from where I was standing. If it wasn’t for them I would have never found it.

I walked up and exchanged pleasantries. We shared in our delight at being out in the hills far away from the madness of Christmas. We agreed our better halves were probably very pleased as well. Spending three days cooped up inside with ‘outdoors’ people is never good! We spent a few minutes exchanging information about our kit (mountaineers love a bit of kit) and then I wished them well as I started to head back down. As I began my descent the cloud cleared for a couple of minutes offering a spectacular view. I took advantage with some photos and then carried on.

The route back was easy to follow and within 1.5hrs I was back at the car. Disappointed mind that the pub was shut for the winter. Without a drink to warm up I hopped in the car and returned back to the hustle and bustle of the city. Now to plan the next climb?

Big Ben...Nevis.

And so it was upon us, the final chapter of this tale of adventure. One more winter climb and we (Sam and I) would have completed our challenge first laid out in the pub on that fateful Saturday night in September. Driving up to Scotland I couldn’t quite believe how far we had come from that initial conversation when we didn’t know our ice axe from our crampons. Not only had purchased significant amounts of kit and performed huge amounts of research, but we had scaled the highest peaks of England and Wales and I could also include a handful of winter Munro’s on my list, courtesy of my winter skills course.

Driving up to Scotland I realised my true passion for this sport. The nature of mountaineering in the winter presents a series of risks but can be summarised as one: Survival. My love for winter mountaineering is centred on this basic mental state, which leaves no room for the clutter that occupies it during other times. This, along with the isolation, spectacular views and massive sense of achievement makes it easier to understand how one could become addicted to its draw.

It was great to arrive in Fort William once again. I had visited three years prior and the drive through Glencoe never fails to make my jaw drop. With two climbs under our belt we were eager to get the third underway first thing the next morning. To our disappointment the first glance of the mountain suggested a relatively low level of snowfall and we voiced our concerns that this could turn into a rather standard walk. Thankfully we were to be proved wrong.

The morning arrived soon enough and we headed out to the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre to park the car. It was a warm morning in mountaineering terms at about 4-5 degrees at 9.00am. After one hour of walking we found ourselves wishing we had not packed so many layers and were fairly convinced we would not see much snow. We set off at a record pace, a world apart from our first climb on Snowdon. I was particularly pleased as I was just getting over a cold and had been nursing a back problem and even up until the previous night had been struggling to climb even a few stairs.

After two hours of quick ascent I hit a wall. My body felt drained and at only 700 meters height I felt like I was running on empty. This hadn’t happened on the previous two climbs and I was frustrated it was happening now! I remembered feeling like this after once attending a circuit training class whilst I had a cold. The 1-hour fitness class quickly turned my cold in to flu. Lesson learnt: Don’t exercise when you’re ill! That said, I couldn’t have learnt my lesson particularly well as I was half way up the UK’s biggest mountain with not an ounce of energy left. I had totally underestimated the effect of the physical exertion would have on my, what was previously a, minor cold. We slowed the pace down and I continued to push on step by step. I broke the walk into small stages and this helped make the task more manageable.

A good while later, at approximately 1000 meters, we hit the snowline. With the snowline came the snowfall and we soon found ourselves in a complete whiteout, far from what we had envisaged, but absolutely fantastic. Up to this point I had managed to navigate the route with pinpoint accuracy but with only a couple of meters visibility it made things infinitely more difficult. In addition to this problem our reading of the map indicated a long plateau with a gentle incline to the summit. At this point we were facing one of the steepest ascents and this shattered my spirits. With some encouragement from Sam we continued one foot in front of the other but stopping every ten meters for rests.

Being unsure of our exact location the temptation was to follow others, but with a very real danger of walking off the cliff face it was a risky strategy to follow the footsteps of people you don’t know. Our calculations put us in the direction of just two sets of prints when compared with the dozens the other side. None the less we had to trust our judgement. It paid off. Within 20 minutes we had summited the UK’s biggest mountain! Completely shattered I sat down and tried to recuperate. It took about 30 minutes before I felt I was sufficiently rested to make our descent.

With next to no visibility we navigated off the plateau using a compass bearing knowing that to far left would see us off the south face and to far right would take us straight off the north face. It was a great feeling when after 30 minutes or so we rejoined the path, the hard part done I thought. But within minutes my back began to twinge shooting pain through my right leg. I couldn’t believe it. My cold had zapped my strength and now my back was in agony with every step, and there was a hell of a lot of steps to go! We continued at a painfully slow pace and in places I feared I might not be able to get of the mountain unassisted. The descent seemed endless and what should have been the easiest part turned into the hardest. I watched with disappointment as people who had summitted hours after us passed us on their way down, but I could do nothing. I continued on my downward journey and eventually made it back to the car park, feeling like a broken man.

After a very long bath and a good nights sleep my back pain simmered and I was mobile enough to walk around without problem. I thought back to yesterdays walk and was still amazed I managed to walk of the mountain myself. As we drove back down south I chuckled at the thought of telling people I conquered the mighty Ben Nevis, because from where I was standing she was in a much better state than I!

Want to go up those hills? Get those winter skills! A week in the Cairngorms.

Having now climbed Snowdon and Scafell Pike in the winter I was eager to get more winter climbs under my belt and had even started to think to trips further afield, Mont Blanc, Everest Advanced Base Camp to name two. I recognised that to take on more serious mountains I would need to seek the training and advice of professionals and as such asked my family to club together and book me on a winter skills course for my 30th birthday.

Before I knew it I was booked on a weeks course based in Avimore in the Cairngorms. I could look forward to ascending some steep gullies covered in snow and ice, digging some snow holes, learning how to stop during a fall and the art of roping up on the mountain. 

Arriving in Avimore I was pleased to see the mountains and the ground conditions didn’t disappoint. The mountain range was vast and they looked bigger than anything I has seen before in this country. There was also plenty of snow and ice so lots of opportunity to ‘get spikey’ as it later became known.

During the week I recall following only a few paths and mainly spending my time ascending steep mountain faces making full use of my ice axe and crampons. We were fortunate to have some fantastically sunny weather that coupled with the snowy landscape made for some epic views.

The course gave me a real opportunity to put my kit and myself to the test and I felt a real sense of doing something pretty serious and far more advanced from following the route up Snowdon. We were making our own routes. After a week of hiking, navigating, falling, digging and rope work I felt more confident than ever. Again, not to be confused with complacency. The course was a perfect introduction into the serious world of winter mountaineering and has given me the desire to learn the many other aspects of surviving in the winter hills.

I cant recommend the company enough. Guy Wilson the director is a fantastic instructor and has a real passion for the outdoors. To find out more go to http://www.pureoutdoor.co.uk.