Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach & Tryfan

It was the middle of January and a few days before our trip I kept looking at the weather forecast hoping for snow. I was disappointed, no snow and no ice. In fact winter seemed to have left Snowdonia altogether. To make matters worse we had previously been planning to head up to the Cairngorms which was covered in the white stuff. The opportunity for a full on winter epic was missed. 

But with one opportunity missed another presented itself in Snowdonia: A Three 3000ft summit climb taking in Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and the mighty Tryfan. The lack of snow and ice gave us the opportunity to get off the beaten tracks and scramble and rock climb our own routes up these three magnificent mountains. 

(Me - Glyder Fawr Summit)

We decided to start off from Ogwen Cottage and head up to Glyder Fawr via Llyn Idwal and the 'Devil's Kitchen'. The day was perfect, a relatively barmy -7c and clear blue skies and sunshine. This was a rare treat indeed. From the summits all of Snowdonia was visible and with such clarity the map and compass barely made it out of the bag.

(Llyn Idwal  & Devil's Kitchen (Top Centre)

 (Left to Right - Jonny, Matt, Sam)

The route up to Glyder Fawr was spectacular. After the lake the route becomes quite steep and starts to get the heart beating. We followed the rocks up to the Devil's Kitchen Gully where we turned left to follow a ridge up to a shoulder between Glyder Fawr and Y-Garn, another 3000ft summit. In retrospect we could have taken this summit in at the same time and bagged four in one day without too much trouble.

(Me - Devil's Kitchen to the left)

(The Shoulder, Left to Right - Me, Jonny, Matt)

A quick stop for some food and we made the final steep ascent up to the Glyder Fawr summit. We soon came to the plateau with the summit in clear sight. We all commented that to find the summit in poor weather could be very difficult. With so many rock formations, you could easily climb the wrong one and think you have made it.

(Sam - Glyder Fawr Summit)

After some more food and drink we began to navigate the plateau and head over to Glyder Fach. The sun was shining hard and it would be easy to forget that just 3 weeks prior a climber had fallen to his death when trying to find a safe route down in the snow. Well equipped and well experienced, bad luck saw him fall through a 50ft cornice.

We made our way over to Glyder Fach but not without first taking in the unexpected treat that is Castell Y Gwynt. A rock formation clinging on to the side of the mountain, we had to take some time and climb up it.

(Me - Photographing Castell Y Gwynt)

(Castell Y Gwtnt - Sam & Me)

After this fantastic bonus we climbed our way up to the summit of Glyder Fach. This was a real opportunity to make your own route and we each did just that. After a few dead ends by the time I made the summit the others were already sat there having a drink.

(Glyder Fach Summit - Matt & Sam)

(Glyder Fach Summit - Sam, Me, Jonny)

From the summit we headed over to another bonus on this route, the Cantilever. At this point the challenge of scrambling and rock climbing our way to two summits had removed any disappointment about the lack of snow. It had turned into one of my best mountain days.

(The Cantilever - Left to Right - Matt, Me, Jonny, Sam)

From the Cantilever we headed towards our final challenge, Tryfan. We had to make a significant descent to the base of our third mountain which involved a steep scree slope. We headed down still full of energy and under no doubt that we would complete what we set out to do. We had read that some people decide to head back at this point choosing to opt for a hot tea at the car park over a punishing climb to the summit of Tryfan.

(Bristly Ridge Scree Slope - Jonny, Matt, Me)

About a third of the way up Tryfan the path disappears and it's time to climb your own way up. We did so in relative confidence with only a few moments for pause when sheer drops were within inches of our route.

(Tryfan - Half Way Up)

After a false summit we made a our way to the quiet summit of Tryfan with a good hour or so of daylight left to get ourselves down to lower ground. What a day, what a surprise.

(Tryfan Summit - Jonny)

(Tryfan Summit - Matt)

(Tryfan Summit - Sam)

(Tryfan Summit - Me)

So what next? With four of the 14 Welsh 3000ft mountains under our belt we are keen to complete the others. Meanwhile my fitness training continues whilst I'm seriously considering my first Himalayan mountain, Island Peak at 20305ft.

Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach & Tryfan Video:

Snowdonia - December 2011

It had been almost 10 months since I last put on my mountain boots and swung the backpack over my shoulder, it's fair to say that was too long. Since September I've been watching the weather report waiting to hear the panic and alarm that comes with the first snow of the season. I'm sure motorists were sat in their cars enjoying the mild autumn but for me it was massively frustrating. Where was the snow?

Since last March I had decided that if I really want to take mountaineering to greater adventures abroad I needed to be much much fitter. After 10 months I am getting there but still have a way to go. I've been looking forward to testing out the new body in the hills.

After tales of last season Sam and I managed to recruit some more members ready to gear up and join our mountaineering adventures, so as the snow began to finally fall Sam, Jonny, Jim, Rob and I booked up some accommodation and headed over to Snowdonia. 

Left to Right: Jonny, Jim, Paul, Rob (Sam taking photo!)

Still concerned there wouldn't be enough snow to make this a true winter expedition, I drove Jonny and Sam down to Snowdonia thinking at least it would be an opportunity to get away from it all. As we got closer we were excited to see snow covered mountain tops which gave us all a boost after the long car journey. 

On Saturday morning we set out a 8.30am planning to take a 13km custom route up Snowdon taking on part of the Snowdon Horseshoe, the Miners Path and the Pyg Track. The route had us walking towards what consistently looked like a vertical ascent up on to the Y Lliwedd ridge. When we got there it was pretty much that, but as usual by breaking it down into small manageable sections, we soon made our own way up onto the ridge. 

The ridge was much harder going than we had anticipated. There were no paths and the ground was rocky and the weather quickly deteriorated into a hail storm. A baptism of icey fire for our new recruits although none seemed phased at all. With ski goggles on and hoods up we pushed on through.

After some long and hard terrain we ate a load of what was now completely frozen food and made our final ascent to the summit. Jim remarked there had been times when what kept him going was the fact that turning round and going back the way we came was pretty unthinkable. He was right, the ridge was spectacular but the cloud cover made it a lonely and desolate place, not somewhere you want to be trying to descend.

We lasted about 20 minutes on the summit before the cold began to drive us down.

Paul and Sam

Jim & Jonny

Rob

The way down required the use of our crampons to get down the zig-zag of the pyg track but then a relatively easy stroll back to civilisation via the Miners Path. When we looked over at the face we had ascended and the ridge we had walked it was somewhat hard to comprehend.

So another winter adventure under our belts and preparing for the Cairngorms trip in January. I'm pleased to be steadily building the skills and experience which will ultimately enable more epic adventures in other places round the world. The lure of the worlds most serious mountains rarely leaves the back of my mind. Here's to working towards that dream!

Snowdonia 2011 Video

2010/11 Mountaineering Madness Video Round Up

Snowdon - December 2010

Scafell Pike - February 2011

Cairngorms - March 2011

Ben Nevis - March 2011

Gear Guide

So summer is here providing an ideal opportunity to reflect on kit for the coming winter. In mountaineering it's all about being well prepared and keeping light. Not always an easy balance to strike. I thought i would take the time to share my personal kit list for hiking up mountains in the UK. I would also use the same kit list for summer alpinism. 

1. Boots

For winter mountaineering you need a winter boot with the ability to take a crampon. This means you will want either a B1, B2 or B3 boot. The higher the rating the firmer the sole, an important feature for crampons. For the UK or summer alpinism I would use a B2 boot with a C2 Crampon. But if you are looking for the best you won't go wrong with the La Sportiva Nepal Extreme B3 (left) at about £275.

2. Crampons

When it comes to crampons few would argue against Grivel. Tried and tested all over the world the Grivel crampon can be relied upon even under the harshest conditions. Like winter boots, crampons come with three ratings, C1, C2, C3. In general a C1 crampon will fit a B1 boot, a C2 will fit a B2 and a C3 will fit a B3. It's essential to get a correct fit so always check compatibility before you purchase. I've personally opted for the Grivel G12 (left) which is a C2 crampon with 12 points. You will be able to pick these up for about £135.

3. Socks

A decent pair of summit socks is an essential not to be neglected. I personally wear two pairs of regular socks underneath a 4 season summit sock, partly for good fit and partly to keep my toes warm. Summit socks like the ones I've purchased (left) can be bought for around £20. You won't regret it on a bitterly cold day.

4. Gaiters

In deep snow gaiters really come in handy. A decent pair of gaiters will prevent snow getting into your boots and ultimately soaking your feet. Wet feet soon get cold and could put an abrupt end to your day. For winter I would recommend that any gaiters are knee high. The good news is that these can be purchased from as little as £10.

5. Waterproof Over Trousers

As you might expect waterproof trousers are essential for any winter adventure. It doesn't have to be raining or snowing to bring these out of the rucksack. In mountaineering there is generally lots of work done on your hands and knees and a pair of waterproof trousers will ensure your knees remain dry and warm. As an absolute minimum you will require a half length zip to ensure you can put the trousers on over your boots. You don't want to be in the snowy mountains hopping on one foot! I personally will only wear waterproof trousers with a 3/4 length zip. If you want the best buy Rab Bergan Pants (left) for £120.

6. Waterproof Jacket

You might be surprised to know that when it comes to UK winter mountaineering you won't want a heavy insulated jacket. Believe it or not you get incredibly hot when on the move even in minus temperatures. Best to keep a number of layers in the rucksack and put them on when needed. For this reason I would recommend a light to middle weight waterproof jacket. If you want the best look for the Rab Latok Alpine Jacket, a favourite around the globe and available from approximately £200.

7. Gloves

When it comes to gloves you can never have enough. A mountaineering instructor once told me he can judge the success of the day by the number of pairs he gets through. The more the better. One thing is for sure, when it comes to gloves they are never 100% waterproof. Rain and snow is one thing but climbing in the snow with your hands will mean eventually they will start to get wet. When I go in the mountains i always take at least two pairs, one thermal inner and one waterproof pair. It's not unusual for people to take three or four pairs. If you want the best you can buy the Rab Ice Gauntlet gloves for £69. Alternatively you pick up a decent pair of gloves for around £20.

8. Hat and Neck Gaiter

This bit is easy, a decent hat and neck gaiter. No particular  brand here guys and gals just something that is warm and hard wearing. £20 should see you with a decent one of each.

9. Rucksack

When out in the winter hills you want a good hard wearing rucksack between 35 and 45 litres. This should mean you can fit in your waterproofs, two-three layers, safety equipment and of course your lunch and water! Rucksacks are not waterproof so you have two options here. One is to purchase a very cheap rucksack liner for about £3 or another option is to purchase a waterproof cover which goes on the outside for about £10. It's down to personal preference here. I prefer a rucksack liner which can't blow away in the wind. As far as the rucksack I went for the Berghaus Arete 45 Litre. You can pick these up for approximately £40.

10. Ice Axe

Don't go up into the snow without it, it might just save your life. The ice axe is an essential tool in the winter mountains but it's only as good as your ability to use it. If you're buying one of these you should really be undergoing some training on how to use it. For general mountaineering a straight hiking axe of between 50 - 65 cm is recommended. I personally like to use mine as a walking aid and therefore have gone for a 70 cm ice axe which reaches the ground when my arm is hanging down by my side. If you look about you will be able to find one for around £50.

11. Head Torch

A good head torch might be an item that doesn't often come out of your backpack but if it's needed it could make the difference between getting down or spending a night stuck on the mountain. With that in mind it is worth investing in a good one. The Petzl Charlet Myo Head Torch comes in at about £45 and will give you about 72 hours of light. There are certainly cheaper ones out there but whatever you go for a halogen or super bright LED type is best.  Remember that batteries suffer in the cold and therefore always go up with spares. 

12. Sunglasses and Goggles

If the skies are clear in the snowy mountains the sunlight can be extremely strong. A good pair of sunglasses is highly recommended and in the Alps an absolute essential. If you're going really high and want the best go for Jublo Explorer Sunglasses, especially designed for high altitude and extreme sunlight. These don't come cheap and can be picked up for approximately £100. If you don't want to spend that much just make sure you have a good pair of sports sunglasses with high levels ultraviolet protection. When it comes to goggles the same applies.

13. Trekking Poles

Trekking poles could be considered optional and really it comes down to personal preference. I wouldn't leave without them, they help spread the load between you legs and arms. I also think that should you injure a leg they may help you get back down. If you're going to take some make sure they are lightweight but strong. Leki have just released the Makalu Khumbu Speedlock poles which fit the bill just perfectly. The flicklock system means you can keep your gloves on when you make adjustments. If you look around you will find these for around £65.

14. Map & Compass

Another example of an essential item that is only as good as your ability to use it. A good compass will keep you on track and should you stray, get you back home. A decent compass can be picked up for £10 - £30. A compass with the 1:50,0000 and 1:25,0000 scale helps when calculating distance in the cold.

15. Thermal Base layer

If your off into the winter mountains you will need a good set of thermal base layers. Ensure that you have top and bottoms and that the material will wick away moisture from your skin. A set will cost as little as £25 but ensure you are warm all day long.

16. Fleece Layers

I like to carry two fleece layers in my rucksack. One lightweight micro fleece and one mid layer fleece. If you have to stop for long you will want the option to add these layers under your jacket. The North Face offer a great range of fleeces and you will come away with one of each for about £60.

17. Hiking Trousers

A pair of lightweight hiking trousers are ideal to go under your waterproofs. I personally swear by Craghoppers which can be picked up for around £35. 

18. Survival Bag / Emergency Shelter.

Pick one of these up for less than £5. If you get stuck it will provide a waterproof and highly visible bag to wait for assistance. You may also wish to take an emergency shelter up with you depending on where you are off to.

19. Other Essentials

Other items to add to your essentials list include a first aid kit, pocket knife, lighter, water resistant matches, candles, glow sticks, torch, water bottle, medication, watch and mobile phone.

The Six Summit Challenge - Planning & Preparation

With a fantastic UK mountaineering season under our belts, it is now the season to enjoy the surf and sunshine over the summer. That said, Sam and I are already in discussions over the next mountaineering challenge - six summits in six days. In December we will head to Scotland to the Cairngorms and Lochaber to climb the six highest summits in the UK.

Ben Nevis 4409 ft

Ben Macdui 4295 ft

Braeriach 4252 ft

Cairn Toul 4236 ft

Sgor an Lochain Uaine 4127 ft

Cairn Gorm 4085 ft

In an ideal weather and avalanche scenario we would aim to climb all six summits in three consecutive days. We are allowing six days to accommodate for varying conditions.

Day 1 - 

Braeriach

Cairn Toul

Sgor an Lochain Uaine 

Day 2 - 

Cairn Gorm

Ben Macdui

Day 3 -

Ben Nevis

With five of the six summits based in the Cairngorms, the plan is to take opportunity to spend a night on the Cairngorm Plateau (the highest, coldest and snowiest plateau in the UK) in a snow hole. Extra pair of socks i think.

It feels good to be planning the next trip and I cant wait to get back into some snow and ice. Meanwhile the preparation will continue for the next epic winter season and for me that means five nights a week in the gym. Can wait to test out the new body in the mountains!

And Mont Blanc, don't think for one minute that we have forgotten you. Summer 2012?